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Smart Objects was introduced back in CS2.  At the time, I did not find much use for it, but recognized that it can come in handy in some occasions.  They do make certain types of changes harder, some functions are not available when using Smart Objects, but they are an excellent tool for non-destructive changes.  Here is a case where they came in extremely handy:

I have started doing a lot more with Photobooks lately.  The first “real” wedding book that I did, took about 12 hours total from scratch (no templates).  If I had not started with objects that time would have been doubled or even tripled.  The time savings comes from being able to move images around, resize, and reposition them easily and without having to go back to the source.

What is a smart object?

A smart object is a “copy” of an image, be it a photograph, vector art, or just about anything that can be its own file and layer.   The object is inserted, as is, into a layer which can be acted upon without modifying the source.

Why use Smart Objects?

The easiest way to tell you is to show you.

1. Find a small image that you would like to test with.  Create a file in Photoshop that is the same, or slightly larger.  Use “White” as your background.  Please note the size of the “test” image.  We’ll assume 400 px X 400px.
   1. Open your image, and Copy its content.  Select All (CTRL+A), Copy (CTRL+C).
   2. Switch to your newly created empty file, and Paste (CTRL+V)
   3. Notice the smoothness of the image.
2. Edit -> Free Transform or CTRL + T
3. In the toolbar for the Transform change, change W: 100px, and H: 100px (25% of the original), and Click the Check Mark.
4. Now increase the size of the layer back by reversing the process.
5. Edit-> Free Transform or CTRL+T
6. In the toolbar for the transform tool, change W: 400px and H: 400px back to the original size of the image.
7. Notice how badly the image is pixilated. This is because the act of reducing the image is destructive.  All extra data after the change is lost.  So if you try to increase the size or get a color or part of the image back – it’s gone.

Now repeat the process, except:

Instead of 1a, 1b, 1c … use File -> Place, and insert the “test” insert as a smart Object. Also instead of using “px” as the size you can use 10% as the scale option.  When you go back to try to increase the size of the layer again, it knows that it is at 10% and you can use 100% to go back to the original size.

I’ve been doing a lot of research into Infrared photography and there doesn’t seem to be a single place that contains all of it, so here is what I found:

With DSLRs there are three types of IR Techniques.

1. Photoshop
2. Converted Bodies
3. Filters

Photoshop: Techniques do exist to “imitate” IR photography.  This is a trick and cannot reproduce the amazing images that you can get from IR itself.

Converted Bodies: The main reason that IR photography is not readily available to us is that all DSLR cameras have a IR Filter that blocks most of the IR light from the sensor.   Method #3 is to physically remove this filter from in front of the sensor.  This conversion is destructive, and that body is not longer able to take normal pictures again, it can only take IR images.    Yes, this means you have to carry yet another body with you everywhere you go, but this is the best possible image you can get.   A typical conversion (there are two or three different kinds) is around $250.   The positives are endless, Auto Focus Works, Exposure Controls work (somewhat, you still need to adjust exposure compensation), you can see the image in your Preview Window as it is, you can use it with any lens you like (even fish eye or long zooms that don’t accept filters or use drop ins).

Filters: They are expensive, but can be used and unused as you like.   The draw backs to filters are:

1. They’re expensive (did I say that already?)
   • Hoya R72 IR Filter, 52mm – 77mm ($90 – $210 respectively)
   • B+W 093 IR Filter, 52mm – 77mm ($114 – $203 respectively)
   • Tiffen 87 IR Filter, 52mm – 77mm ($106 – $153 respectively)
2. With Filters, you have to use very long exposures (as most of the light is blocked by the IR filter of the camera.
3. Only certain scenes can be captured (because of the duration required)
4. AF is disabled (you can’t see anything once you put the filter on) — You have to compose your shot, put on the filter and hope nothing moves, than take the shot.
5. Exposure Control is disabled.
6. You have to use a tripod – since you get only a small % of the light you need very long exposures (10″-30″, 30″+ second exposure are typical).

In the next few posts, I’ll delve more into each of these items in more detail.