At times I want a color in Photoshop to match something else on my desktop.
An example:
In Lightroom 3 you can use a graphical identity place in place of the Adobe one. But I wanted the gray of the lightroom to match my logo.
Yes, you can take a screen shot and cut-n-paste it into an image, than use the color picker to pick the image, but there is a much more accurate and fast way — although in Mac world this is automatically done you can do the same thing in window.
- Open the application that the color you need, if you can move it to the left or right side of the image.
- Open Photoshop, now exit the maximize view (The button next to the “X” on the top right). It’s a window in window mode, denoting maximized window. If you press this and nothing seems to happen (but the icon changes to a single window), you window is no longer maximized but it’s still set to the maximum size of the screen. Just move your moues to the corner and you should get a handle.
- Either have a image open, or just create an empty file.
- Reduce the size of the Photoshop window so that the color in question is visible under your Photoshop window.
- Click inside of the Image or file that you created (don’t let go of the button).
- Drag the Eye Dropper in Photoshop, as you do the color will change in the color selection and your eye dropper remains working even if you move outside of the Photoshop window so you can pickup the color of the other application.
Smart Objects was introduced back in CS2. At the time, I did not find much use for it, but recognized that it can come in handy in some occasions. They do make certain types of changes harder, some functions are not available when using Smart Objects, but they are an excellent tool for non-destructive changes. Here is a case where they came in extremely handy:
I have started doing a lot more with Photobooks lately. The first “real” wedding book that I did, took about 12 hours total from scratch (no templates). If I had not started with objects that time would have been doubled or even tripled. The time savings comes from being able to move images around, resize, and reposition them easily and without having to go back to the source.
What is a smart object?
A smart object is a “copy” of an image, be it a photograph, vector art, or just about anything that can be its own file and layer. The object is inserted, as is, into a layer which can be acted upon without modifying the source.
Why use Smart Objects?
The easiest way to tell you is to show you.
- Find a small image that you would like to test with. Create a file in Photoshop that is the same, or slightly larger. Use “White” as your background. Please note the size of the “test” image. We’ll assume 400 px X 400px.
- Open your image, and Copy its content. Select All (CTRL+A), Copy (CTRL+C).
- Switch to your newly created empty file, and Paste (CTRL+V)
- Notice the smoothness of the image.
- Edit -> Free Transform or CTRL + T
- In the toolbar for the Transform change, change W: 100px, and H: 100px (25% of the original), and Click the Check Mark.
- Now increase the size of the layer back by reversing the process.
- Edit-> Free Transform or CTRL+T
- In the toolbar for the transform tool, change W: 400px and H: 400px back to the original size of the image.
- Notice how badly the image is pixilated. This is because the act of reducing the image is destructive. All extra data after the change is lost. So if you try to increase the size or get a color or part of the image back – it’s gone.
Now repeat the process, except:
Instead of 1a, 1b, 1c … use File -> Place, and insert the “test” insert as a smart Object. Also instead of using “px” as the size you can use 10% as the scale option. When you go back to try to increase the size of the layer again, it knows that it is at 10% and you can use 100% to go back to the original size.
If you’re a fan of lightroom there are some absolutely great features, updates and add-ons to Lightroom 3. It’ll continue to work until April 2010 which is a good time to check it out if you are not a fan. Why would you be?!?
On the top of my list:
- Graphical watermarks (YAY!)
- Much improved import tool and display (YAY!)
- Highlight priority vignetting
- Much better sharpening (YAY! No more photoshop droplets)
- Show Mask Overlay in the developer module when you use the tools for local adjustments.
These are just the ones that I had been hoping for, there are various new speed enhancements as well to deal with the ever growing file and catalog sizes.
Head over to Adobe Labs for your own copy of Lightroom 3 Beta.
There are no magic bullets on getting a knife’s edge sharp picture.
Here are some steps that you need to get you 50% there, the rest you’ll have to do…
- Use a tripod, monopod, or anything else.
Before you even ask — YES, you need one. The best one that you’ll actually carry with you.
- Be it, a $450 carbon-fiber Manfrotto, or a $12 Walmart special. Having it and using it better than having it and not using it.
- This includes a ziplock full of rice that you can slap down and use as a bed to place your camera on, to using the side of a building to push your camera against.
- A proper stance is the last part of this. Left hand underneath against your chest, cradling the camera on your palm, your fingers spread out being parted by the lens.
- Use a fast shutter speed.
The general rule of thumb is that if you at 100mm focal length, you can hand hold up to 1/100th of a second or faster. I would not tell anyone to hand hold anything below 1/80th — as your blood pressure, heart beat, and simple act of breathing can introduce movement in the image. This goes double for longer focal length.
- Use good glass.
You have to do your research before buying your glass. Almost all main lens manufacturers have your “regular” or “consumer” lenses, and also a “professional” series. The main difference is the construction and optics that are used in the lens. Canon has the “L” series, Sigma has the “EX” series, Tamron well they don’t but they claim all of their lenses are professional.
- Use the proper depth of field — good focus
A whole lot of images are in fact very sharp — you just don’t like where the sharpness is. This is because of poor focus, because the subject moved, you moved or you just mis-focus. This plus, a small depth of field puts all or some of your subject out of focus, and not very sharp. Using manual focus is obviously idle, if possible. Using a larger depth of field (smaller aperture) would also help. If you camera has a “auto-keep-focus” such as the Canon AI Servo that will lock and keep focus will also help if the subject is moving.
- Use a short focal length
Now this one is my personal note, I think most people try to zoom too much. Most your feet and get closer to your subject and fill the frame. Use the shortest focal length you have (without going into the wide range [< 50mm]).
- Proper post-processing
Unlike film, almost all digital images need some post processing. Specially USM (UnSharpen mark) — opposite to it’s name it’s actually a tool that sharpens your images. It is not a tool to sharpen a blurry image, but if you have done everything else this last step will give you that extra pop of sharpness.
As always, there are dozen different answers to every question, but I am hoping that these small points help someone get a sharper image.
The prize winning, Nature and Wildlife Photographers of Long Island (NWPLI) has teamed yet again with Castello Di Borghese Winery for an Autumn Exhibition of Nature Photography. The show runs from November 14th, 2009 until December 12th, 2009. There is also a meet the artists reception at the Winery will be Saturday, November 21st from 12-3 PM. Please come and see the amazing Nature and Wildlife photography at its very best.
Here is a non-comprehensive list of Photographic (or related) Associations that are around. Most will accept anyone who can pay the yearly dues.
- APA – Advertising Photographers of America
- ASMP – American Society of Media Photographers
- NAPP – National Association of Photoshop Professionals
- NANPA – North America Nature Photography Association
- PPA – Professional Photographers of America
- PSA – Photographic Society of America
- WPPI – Wedding and Portrait Photographers International
