This isn’t a photoshop or illustrated or drawn. It’s an actual photograph from the trees in Camel Thorn Trees, Namibia.
“Tinted orange by the morning sun, a soaring dune is the backdrop for the hulks of camel thorn trees in Namib-Naukluft Park.”
Article at: National Georgraphic
We ran out of shortcut key printouts so here is the PDF of the 1 page sheet. As well as the original 11 page from Adobe. I find the 1 sheet easier since 90% of my time is in these two modules.
lightroom 3 Shortcuts Long Version
All pages are copyright by Adobe, these are re-produced from their website and applications.
If you’re using a off-shoe cord to do your flash photography. Use your reach to add or subtract light to your subject simply by moving the flash, closer (more light) or further away (less light) from the subject.
A boring name for a law, the inverse square law, is a fancy way of saying the further the light goes the less bright it is. So if you want less light, which means darker shadows and “more drama” simply move the flash further away from your subject.
I just did a bunch of Dahlia shots at Bayard Cutting in Oakdale, NY. You can change character of the flowers by moving your flash back and forth as well as higher and lower. Try it and you’ll see a large array of new possibilities.
Keep in mind that the flash does not have to be pointing at the flower. Move the slightly off center, so that only the side of the light being thrown hits the flower. This is known as feathering the light and is often used with studio lights and soft boxes specially. However, the same technique can be applied to portable flashes.
Suffolk Camera Club and Aram Mirzadeh Present
Shedding light on Lightroom 3
Wednesday, September 8th, 2010 at 7 p.m.
Bohemia Rec Center, 1 Ruzicka Way, Bohemia, NY 11716-2161, (631) 472-7037
An introduction seminar into Digital Workflow using Adobe Lightroom 3.
Free Raffle, refreshments, etc.
Please see the Shedding Light flyer for all details.1 Ruzicka Way, Bohemia, NY 11716
The Town of Brookhaven
Small Business Advisory Council
A Must-Attend Event for anyone who owns a business or is starting a business
Guest Speaker: Supervisor Mark Lesko
FREE Workshops Available:
- Franchise Opportunities
- Social Networking
There is no charge for this event.
Light Dinner will be served.
For more information on Brookhaven Town’s largest networking event, please contact the Economic Development Office at 631-451-6563 or e-mail email@example.com
Location: Brookhaven Town Hall,
Bookhaven Hown Small Business Flyer
[There was no 3.1, so don't go looking for it]
If you’re one of the people who have been effected by the bug that makes some older Lightroom 2 catalog not portable, this release candidate should fix that problem. It’s not the final version, so don’t put it on your production machine, but it’s an easy install and test to see if you can upgrade your old LR2 to LR3 version.
Along with that change comes a whole lot of other fixes and updates including Camera RAW 6.2.
If you’re interested head over to adobe labs for the download.
While doing some very late macro flower photography the moon decided it was going to look very interesting. Having had only my Canon EF 100mm Macro lens with me, there wasn’t a lot of “moon shot” that I could take, so I decided to incorporate the moon into the picture.
The equipment I had with me:
Canon 1Ds Mark II, 100mm f/2.8 Macro Lens, 580EX II Flash with extension cable, 12, 20 and 36mm extension tubes, large and small silver and gold reflector, finally my Tripod.
- Lens extenders although make you be able to get in really close to a subject, like a sleeping bee (okay maybe it’s SLEEPING sleeping) you do lose your infinite focus. Remove all extenders before starting.
- Setup tripod and compose your shot, focusing back and forth until you have the shot you want.
- I tried a couple of different techniques to get the shot.
- First, a multi-focus shot. This is very similar to doing a HDR or Exposure Bracket, where you take a couple of exposures based on different settings so that you can combine them later for a higher light to dark range.
- Focus on the moon, take a shot: 1/250th @ f/6.3, ISO 100 – flash fired away.
- Without moving anything — refocus on the flower, take a shot: 1/250th, @f6.3, ISO 100, Flash fired at flower from right.
- Combine the two images in Photoshop as two layers, and mask. I’ll redo the steps on how I did this in a post tomorrow.
Moon focus shot
Final image, combined in PS, finished in LR3
Flower Focus Shot
- Second, a single shot trying to get as much as possible into DoF.
- I moved as far as back as I could. Increased distance to subject increases depth of field.
- Note that the moon’s focus is infinity.
- Focus on the flowers, and note the distance on the lens. Go half way between them, which were just about at the edge of infinity.
- Change aperture to f/32, as with the smaller the aperture the larger the depth of field.
- Take a single shot with flash pointing at the flowers, as right and higher as I could reach without pulling the camera.
It’s a strange thing, but take this little bit of gem that I learned today. This is really only going to be a problem for night time celestial photographers (although I’m sure there are other instances that I cannot think of at the moment).
Comparatively, a single shot at relatively faster speed at 1600 ISO will have less noise than 20 shots at a lower speed with ISO 100, stacked on top of each other.
Yes, I didn’t believe it either. It all has to do with the randomness of noise and how the sensor actually deals with the noise. The random effect that is produced and is doubled and duplicated during stacking will make produce an image that has more noise than if you had taken a single shot at a higher ISO. I’m sure there is a cross over point at which this is more prone and even more true, but I have not done enough testing and reading to be able to tell you what that is, but for now know that 1 shot at a higher ISO is usually less noise then a stacked of images at a lower ISO.
This came up tonight, so thought it may help someone else as well.
What determines what your depth of field is? Most think that the aperture size is the most important factor for the size of the field. This isn’t true at all.
The three factors that determine your depth of field are:
- Your final focal length, by which I mean your lens’s focal length x your sensor magnifier.
If you have a crop sensor, for example a 40D, your magnifier is a 1.6. So a 50mm lens is actually a 80mm lens.
The factor is that the longer the focal length the smaller your depth of field is.
Example: With everything else equal, a 50mm lens has a depth of field of 5 feet, but a 200mm lens at exactly the same situation will have 3.6 inches of depth.
- The distance from you to the subject.
How close the subject is to you is also a very important factor, or rather your focus point is the determining factor.
The closer your focus point (past your minimum focusing distance) is to your lens the smaller the depth of field is going to be.
Example: A 50mm lens focusing at a subject 8.6 feet away (100 inches) will have a depth of ~45 inches. If the same subject was moved closer to the lens, say 16 inches away the depth of field would be reduced from 45 inches to 1 inch.
- Lastly, the aperture size of your lens.
The last option is the size of your aperture, as the smaller the aperture is the more depth of field you will have. Same goes true for the opposite, the larger your aperture size is, the less depth of field you will have.
Example: At f/7.1, the depth of field could be 1.3 feet. However at f/2.8 the depth is going to be reduced to 0.5 feet, and f/32 5.8 feet of depth.
This is also in order of most effectiveness, the longer your focal length the less the aperture size matters. Same is also true for the distance to subject and your aperture. The focal length and the distance to subject are just about neck and neck as far as importance. Both have a huge effect on the final result, however again the change in size of the focal length does more to effect the size of the field than the distance to the subject.
In case you’re already running 12, there were some serious updates out. You may want to check for updates. I myself turn off all the adobe updaters so this was news to me.
The most significant fixes in the Photoshop 12.0.1 update include the following:
- A number of issues that could cause slow performance have been addressed.
- Top crashers found in the field have been addressed.
- 3D refractions, Ray Tracing and IBL workflows improved.
- Out of memory error opening some TIFFs has been addressed.
- A crash in Content Aware Fill has been addressed.
- Font related crashes have been addressed.
- Scroll wheel issue addressed.
- A number of user interface and workspace issues addressed.
- A number of painting issues addressed, including video layer issue.
- Droplet issues addressed.